Another day, another museum!

Thursday, 21 February, 2013

Hello!

We awoke this morning to pictures of SNOW in Tucson – or certainly Marana, where they are trying to play the Accenture Match Play in professional golf – play suspended because of SNOW!  However, while there may be snow at home, here it is, as the weather gal announced this morning, “bitterly cold.”  And boy, or brrrrrrrrr, is she right!!  So…up this morning about 6:30 a.m.  Our plan for today is to get to the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford, as there is the Sumerian Kings List tablet that we really want to see.  The Ashmolean, it turns out, is the oldest private museum in the U.K.  And, now here comes apology time.

Ashmolean Museum

Years ago (more than I care to admit; probably 18 or 20?) Robert and I visited the Ashmolean Museum; and it was AWFUL.  It truly reminded both of us of somebody’s untidy attic or basement – desperately in need of cleaning and modernizing.  So, entering this time, we had no idea that this had actually happened!  Somewhere around 2009, the museum was totally and completely redesigned on the inside.  Apparently 2/3-rds of the “old” museum had been blown out, and 39 new galleries on six floors (including lovely, new top-floor restaurant with sky lights) are the result.  The museum was SUPERB, so Ashmolean, our sincere apologies about all the things we’ve said about you over the years – you are now a first-rate institution!

We wanted to be there at opening time (surprise!) at 10 a.m. so left Bibury at about 8:45 a.m.  It’s not that far into Oxford, but we thought there might be traffic to deal with.  Well, quite a bit of traffic, but even more road construction!  Some places were indeed torn up, and we resolved to head out of town on a different route, even if it meant circling around Oxford to avoid the construction.  Emmy and Robert did a fabulous job guiding is right into town.  Much of Oxford has been given over to pedestrianized streets and one-way traffic, but my crack navigation system led us right past the Ashmolean to an underground parking lot only a block away!  Our problem then became that we had to pay a machine in advance – (although people with proper mobile phones were able to call and provide credit card info…) and we didn’t have much change!  (Memo to the file:  Keep change handy at all times!!) So, we paid for an hour, then headed upstairs to find more change.  Went into a Café Nero Coffee and I got a fabulous cup of hot chocolate, Robert got coffee, and a piece of their lemon drizzle cake … hmmm!!  We also got change!  Yea!!  So, back downstairs again to pay for 5 hours of time; hope that will be enough!

Sumerian Kings List

Sumerian Kings List

Pottery

Upstairs again, out into the bitterly cold weather, and out on to Beaumont Avenue; just a stone’s throw from the Ashmolean!  And WOW!  What a surprise awaited us!  We walked in expecting “Grandma’s attic” and were confronted with modern, spacious and a stunning collection!  We were primarily interested in the early Near-East collection, and it was superb.  The very first artifact we came to was the exact thing we were looking for – the Sumerian Kings List, and it’s a beauty!  It took us over an hour and 15 minutes to get through the one room – there was so much to read and see and think about.  There were pieces donated by the British Museum, as well as many pieces collected personally by archaeologists during their digs in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.

Humped Bull

Pottery

(Editor’s note:  One of the big things in museums these days is the provenance of items – that means, where did something come from, and how did you get it?  Major museums in several countries, including the Getty in Los Angeles and the Met in New York, have either been forced to return items, or do so voluntarily, when it has been proved that artifacts found their way out of their home countries illegally, breaking the antiquities laws in various countries.  So…museums are beginning to include where things came from – such as, donated by the archeologist of XXX dig; purchased for the museum by the National Trust or Friends of the Museum, etc.  And in many cases, they have to put “provenance unknown” – which does make it a bit tricky for them!  I am sure that many more items will eventually find their way back “home” eventually.  In one particular case in Turkey that we heard of last year, one of a pair of Lion statues guarding an entrance to a Hittite site “somehow” made its way to Germany, and the Turkish government wanted it back!  So…the German government was told:  If your people want to get any more digging permits (they have to reapply each year or “season”) you’ll give us back our lion! No lion, no permits! And guess what?  The lion is now safely back in the Hittite museum in Turkey!) 

Stamp Seal & Modern Impression (left)

So where was I?  Babbling on about the museum…it was superb!  Robert had read something about their collection of musical instruments a few years ago  – particularly Stradivari pieces – and it was also first-rate.  All in all, we spent about three hours in the museum, before heading back out into town.

Now…true confessions…I had thought that long-sleeve turtlenecks along with my coat, gloves, hat and scarf would be enough to keep me warm…Well, I was wrong!  I have been freezing!  So, we decided to look for a sweater for me; (Robert was smart and brought his with him…) 

Randolph Hotel

First, past the Randolph Hotel, where Robert took a picture.  If anyone is an Inspector Morse/Sargent Lewis fan, they will, I am sure, recognize the hotel.  One of the first episodes, “The Wolvercote Tongue” took place in and around the Randolph.  I remember finding that the Randolph Hotel actually existed, and being SO excited!  We’ve stayed there twice – once by ourselves, and once with Mom – and now, it seems, they have the “Morse Bar” – too bad we weren’t in search of liquid refreshment!

Martyr's Memorial

Oxford Street Scene

Oxford Street Scene

Margaret buys a sweater

 I had thought there would be a department store on George Street (the main shopping street in Oxford) but didn’t see one.  Robert spotted an Edinburgh Woolen Mill store, and they were having a sale!  The nice sales lady showed us some lovely cashmere sweaters – I’ve never had one before, but she assured us that the sweater, even though thin, being cashmere, would be very, very warm…hmmm…We selected a nice dark gray color, and I went to the changing room and pulled it on…well, not only did it fit, but as I told the nice lady, it WASN’T coming back off; I would wear it there, thank you very much!  They managed to get the tags and security button off me at the checkout and out we went – me VERY much happier, I assure you!

Lunch

Lunch

Oxford Street Scene

Back toward the car park, as we thought we would head into the Cotswold’s and stop at a nearby pub once we were out of town.  However, at this point, Robert spied a Noodle Nation shop which looked interesting, so in we went.  (We both fell in love with noodles in Hong Kong a long, long time ago!)  What a fun place!  Tables and benches and very informal, with a great list of choices.  Noodles?  What kind?  Rice?  Beef, chicken, prawns, vegetarian – and something like 150 different sauces and ways to prepare them!     Well…I ordered chicken with Chinese Ho Fun noodles in a satay sauce.  Robert ordered the vegetarian and cashew dish with Udon noodles in a chilli and garlic sauce.  Both dishes were wonderful, and we very much enjoyed the noodle experience!

Back to the car at this point, and it was 1:53 p.m.  … which was fortunate, as our parking ticket expired at 1:54 p.m.!  Talk about good planning…or rather pure, dumb luck!  Out of town past the train station (how many times have we walked into town from there, we ask ourselves) and into the countryside and heading back to Bibury.  We actually did go through a toll-crossing -- there was a guy collecting 5 pence from each car -- equivalent, I'd say to around 3 cents!  Incredible!  But as I say, keep that small change handy!

In the Cotswold's

In the Cotswold's

In the Cotswold's

We had thought about going out to Chedworth Roman villa, which we haven’t seen in years, but honestly, even with my new nice feeling and warm sweater, being outside isn’t the greatest place to be right about now!  So, headed back to the cottage, with a detour through Coln St. Aldwyn’s, one of our favorite small Cotswold towns.  The ground hereabouts is really, thoroughly soaked, and apparently, in December, there was some flooding taking place.  In fact, in some cases, the water table is actually rising, causing even more property damage.  So, through Coln and back to Bibury.  We stopped at the Post Office store, which is not too far down the street, for a look around.  Over the years, we have purchased many things here – some cute little hand-painted sherry glasses, a nice watercolor print, a badge for my walking stick, etc.  Found a few little things to pick up – note cards can always come in handy! And back to our nice, cozy and warm cottage.

Our car on a small road in the Cotswold's

I was definitely in need of a lie-down, so headed upstairs for a nice nap.  R napped on the couch in the lounge.  We had so much lunch today that we’re eating “in” tonight.  R currently finishing a packaged lasagna we had picked up at Waitrose, and I’m still considering my options.  Robert has also made a lovely fire in the wood-burning stove, and it’s feeling even cozier than before!  So, friends, that’s about it for now!

Lots of love!

m

xxx