Thursday, February 28, 2013

More Berlin and yet another Museum!



 Thursday, 28 February, 2013

Guten Abend! (well, almost…not quite evening, but I’ve no idea how to say “afternoon!”) [Note from RJB: Nachmitag]

Well, we did have an interesting morning!  For those of you who are unfamiliar with my issues with electricity, I can only say that it happened…again.  I got up about 2:30 a.m. for a bathroom break (I know, TMI!) and as soon as I hit the light switch for the bathroom, there was a loud “POP” – and of course, no lights!  I did mention it to Robert, but we both fell back to sleep.  When we finally got up, around 6:30 – not only were there no lights in the bathroom, but NO lights overhead in the main room!  Not sure if I popped a circuit breaker or blew out a switch – at any rate, it was dark.  Fortunately, the power outlets were still working; they must be on a different fuse.  Robert called the front desk, and they thought at first that it was something to do with our key cards.  But, when he explained about the loud “pop” I heard, they figured they were going to have to get to housekeeping to fix it…which would, of course take a whole.  They very nicely brought up a key to #103, the room down the hall, for us to use to shower in, as it’s not that easy showering in the dark … only to find that their lights were out as well!  At any rate, I took a shower in cold room 103, and R figured out that he could move a floor lamp into the bathroom, and voila, he could see!  Hmmm…out about 8 to find some breakfast and see some sights.

Antipodes

At Antipodes

Breakfast
I had read in a hotel publication about a nearby coffee shop run by two Kiwis that was highly recommended; it is called Antipodes.  We set out to find it – and ran into not one but TWO Laundromats!  I am SOOOOOO happy!  (I hadn’t planned to do any wash here in Berlin, and take care of things in Prague, but with them being so close and all, I just can’t help myself…as Robert says, it’s a good thing that I’m not REALLY OCD!) [I was being ironic! – RJB]  Antipodes is a couple of blocks away – about 15 minutes on foot – but while we were walking, we actually saw a bit (little bit!) of blue sky, and later,  some SUN!!  Whoopee!!  Made it to the coffee shop and it is really delightful!  Nice, clean place complete with piles of magazines, a computer, and some fabulous baking!  We both ordered their breakfast platter of German bread, smoked ham and cheese – and it was GREAT!  Two kinds of cheese – Camembert and something like Swiss, and the German bread was heavy into whole grains, and was delicious!  We also bought a few cookies to munch on the way out…hmmm…they didn’t last long!  Will definitely head back there tomorrow morning!

Tram

Tram
















    


Berlin Wall
Berlin Wall
Berlin Wall

From Antipodes, we found a tram line, and caught our first tram of the trip.  Fun ride to the end of the line and the North Train Station.  A block or so from the station we came to the Berlin Wall Memorial; an incredible sight.  Not sure, actually, where to begin.  There is so much to see and experience in

The Death Strip - Between the inner and outer walls
Markers of the Berlin Wall (with M outside!)

Berlin, but when you contemplate the actual physical division of a city into separate parts, it’s incredible!  There were parts of the outer and inner walls still standing, and then what was known as the “death strip” – about 100 m. of deserted ground between the two  – with barbed wire, and lights – everything to make it as difficult as possible to “escape.”  But can you seriously imagine waking up one morning and finding that you were no longer able to get to your job, because it was two blocks on the “other” side?  Or get to your family members or friends, for the same reason?  And that you could be KILLED for even trying?  The memorial itself spanned blocks, with posts sticking up to indicate where the outer wall had been, and there were various exhibits talking about various features of the wall – the original low wall, the fact that the East Germans took over a cemetery that just “happened” to cross the line – they cleared it out (or said that they did) and then literally made it into a part of the wall!  When you see it now, there is a great deal of

The Death Strip

commemoration – there is an entire wall of photographs with dates indicating the names and ages of the 100+ people who died trying to escape.  The saddest one was a 2 year old child, who obviously was killed when his parents were trying to get to the West.  And we think we have it so rough.  When you think of what these poor people had to go through just to get to freedom; wow!  There is a visitor center that has an amazing film – it shows when the wall first went up, there were people living on a certain street – the buildings were in East Berlin, but the street behind

Killed trying to cross the Wall

the buildings was in West Berlin – and film of people literally jumping out of high windows and leaving everything else behind in their attempt to escape. 

Parts of the dismantled wall

Eventually, the East Germans evacuated everyone from the buildings, and literally bricked up the windows – amazing footage.  Do have to admit that I was in tears by the end of the film; the way East Germany collapsed, so suddenly and unexpectedly – and to see the people actually jumping on the wall and over it, and streaming back and forth across the border stations – I do remember it from news coverage at the time, but to be here and actually see where this all happened – wow…

Altes Museum

Cleopatra

Roman Mosaic

Roman sculpture of a young girl

At the Altes Museum

At the Altes Museum

At the Altes Museum

Rotunda - Altes Museum

At the Altes Museum

At the Altes Museum

At the Altes Museum - Love the Leg!
Decided then to see if we could make our way back down to Museum Island and this time, try the Altes Museum.  We found the appropriate tram, but it apparently was running into some sort of civic demonstration, so we didn’t make it to our final destination – rather, a bit more walking to get to the Altes, and by now, whatever sun and blue sky had been there in the morning was no longer the case; plus, the wind had spring up, which was COLD!  

Lovely time at the Altes Museum.  It’s not exactly our favorite periods – Greek, Etruscan and Roman – but they had some beautiful things, and everything was displayed extremely well.  We spent about three hours wandering around – very, very few other people there; sometimes we had entire galleries to ourselves – and the security guards!  Stopped in their café to have a sandwich – one cheese, one salami, and we split them – washed down with Coca Light in the tiniest bottles – literally, about one small glass full, and that was for 2.50E!  Obviously they’ve never heard of a “large” coke at McDonalds – a real bucketful!

As it was after 3 p.m. when we left the museum, we decided to head back to the hotel – 1) to see if we had electricity (we DO!) and 2) regroup before dinner!  I’m thinking nap, myself…R already there!  We’re heading back to Transit tonight for dinner, but going about 6, so hopefully it won’t be quite so chaotic!
So – more later!
m
xxx

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Three blogs a day -- more than enough!



Wednesday, 27 February 2013 – Post #3 (Wow, today has been a busy day!)

Good evening!

Fernsehturm - Berlin's TV tower
Brandenburg Gate
Just wanted to update on dinner this evening (mainly so I won’t dream about it like I did last night).  First, we took the U8 to Alexanderplatz to see if we could find someplace to eat.  And, while there were places, none of them looked really good to us.  So, we got on a TXL bus to the Brandenberger Tor (Gate) because I wanted to see it at night.  And it was beautiful!  We got some nice photos, then decided to get the bus back to our hotel, and try someplace else locally.

Margaret & Bear at the U.S. Embassy

Bear at the U. S. Embassy

Front door of the U.S. Embassy
Block House restaurant
However, as we were looking for the right bus stop, we stumbled first upon the American Embassy (see photos) and then on the British – and, right across the street, was a restaurant called Block House.  It looked nice, so we headed in – and yum, the food was great!  We both had almost the same thing.  We ordered filet mignons (rare) – and they certainly were that!  They also came with a great salad, baked potato in sour cream and garlic bread.  Robert had vanilla ice cream with hot red fruits (raspberries) and I had a slice of their wonderful cheesecake with a raspberry sauce…yippee!!

Then back to the 200 bus back to Alexanderplatz, and finally the U8 to the hotel.  It is now 9:39 p.m. and we are tucked in for the night!!

More tomorrow – and I promise there won’t be three posts tomorrow!
m
Salad

Filet, baked potato and garlic bread

Ice cream with hot raspberries

Cheese cake with raspberry sauce
xxx

Addendum from RJB: In our travels, we have occasionally come across cities that have sponsored a form of street art, consisting of numerous fiberglass figures, each painted by a different artist.  Toronto, for example, did this some years ago featuring moose figures, which were all over town.  We have now seen two bears, including the one in the U.S. Embassy, that look like Berlin's version of the genre.

The Museum Adventure Continues!



Wednesday, 27 February, 2013

Guten Tag!

We have had yet another museum filled day, and we still have at least one more museum to go!  (Although not today, I have to admit!)  Down for breakfast about 8 a.m. and had it here in the hotel.  Okay buffet spread of bread, cheese and cold cuts – only one of which was recognizable to me (I do NOT do mystery meat!); some wonderful salami!  Think we may find someplace else tomorrow; we’ll have to see.
Spree River

Spree River
Back up to the room, and out the door about 9:15. We stopped at the front desk and obtained the Berlin Welcome card, which will take care of museums and all transit for the next 72 hours; figured it was a good deal, if only for the museum admissions!  Day was very overcast (will we ever see the sun before we head back to Tucson, we ask ourselves?!  But hey, this was our idea – weather vs. tourists, right?!)

Building detail

Draw bridge
 And, once again, the underground system that is Berlin’s got us good!  (When we were here in 2006, we took two different underground trains with a huge change in the middle to get to Museum Island … and then had a ways to walk…only to find out on our last day in Berlin that if we had ignored the underground and walked three blocks – there was Museum Island!  Oh well!)  First, to explain Museum Island.  This is a small island in the middle of the Spree River, which runs through Berlin.  Over the years, most of the traditional museums were located here, and when the city was split, Museum Island was entirely in the eastern zone.  Since East and West Berlin have become one again, there has been a massive undertaking to renovate all the museums.  When we were here before, for instance, the Egyptian collection had been moved from the Charlottenburg Palace out in the suburbs to a temporary space in the Altes Museum.  What they now have (which is a bit confusing to the likes of us…) is the Pergamonmuseum, which is really three museums in one.  The Pergamon altar and the Ishtar Gate are some of the show pieces of the Pergamonmuseum.  However, on the top floor of the Pergamonmuseum is the Museum for Islamic Art.  Then, physically around the corner, is the entrance to the Neues Museum.

Heron

Tourist
So, back to getting taken for a ride again by the subway…we decided that if we went back two stops, to Alexanderplatz, we could transfer there to the U2 line, and take it to Markisches Museums…which is what we thought would be the Museum Island museums…silly us, of course not!  That is, literally, a museum called Markisches!  So…that meant that by the time we had resurfaced above ground, we were at the very far end of Museum Island, and had to walk the entire length to get to where we wanted to be!  Pretty misty; light rain, but not enough for umbrellas (which we actually have with us!); not too bitterly cold, either, which is nice.  So…to walk…

Got closer to the museum complex, and WOW, what a construction mess it is!  There is building going on everywhere – with all sorts of barricades and barriers across entire streets.  Finally made our way past what looked to be a large cathedral, and arrived at the Neues Museum … only to find that our Museum Island pass wasn’t enough – we needed a timed 4-Euro supplement ticket!  Ugh!!  So – R got in the long line, and I poked around – and found that if I went into the Pergamonmuseum, that there was NO line to upgrade the tickets and get a time – for right then!  Back out the door and outside to find Robert, and in we whisked into the Neues Museum. 

Berlin Cathedral

Berlin Cathedral
Very, very nicely renovated space.  The courtyard has been covered in glass, reminiscent of the British Museum, and it was quite lovely.  There is an excellent exhibition on von Schlieman’s excavation of Troy, as well as some of the finds from Priam’s Treasure – mostly copies, though, as the Pushkin Museum in Moscow has the originals, which were looted during WWII and never returned; obviously a fair amount of bitterness remains – I just wish they’d get them back, as we’d love to see the originals!  (But not enough to go to Moscow…)

Nefertiti (not our photo)
Then, there was the Egyptian collection, and Nefertiti’s sculpture.  (Hopefully R can find a photo to paste in, as NO pictures were allowed in that part of the collection.)  I had forgotten how lovely she was – the sculpture is truly superb.  Akhenaten, Nefertiti’s husband/king, has always been Robert’s favorite pharaoh, and the entire special exhibit concerned the family and the building of the city of Amara to Akhenaten’s new God, the Sun.  Very, very well done; we enjoyed it very much!

Altes Museum

Berlin Manhole Cover
After thoroughly covering the Neues Museum, we decided to push on to the Pergamon.  Checked out coats, and headed in – first to the Pergamon Altar, which was  lovely.  There was a model reconstruction of the entire Pergamon site, which we visited last spring – and it really helped us put the altar into context vis a vis the other sights we had visited there.  Too many school kids all over the steps – Spanish Steps, anyone? – so we’ve decided to return early  either tomorrow or Friday to see if we can have it a bit more to ourselves.  However, from the Ishtar Gate (and I LOVE those blue tiles!!) through the entire rest of the museum, there were a few people here or there, but really, we had as much time as we wanted to poke around and read.  We were able to find just about everything that we had marked down to see in our Mesopotamian dictionary; a few things not there, but we’ll see what we can do later in the week.  There are, of course, two rooms closed for an upcoming show they’re having…grrr…

Treasures from Troy

Margie at the museum
Finally admitted that we were “museumed-out” for the day after five hours, so decided to walk back to the hotel.  Took about 20 minutes, but it was very interesting.  We stopped at a local market to buy sparkling water, and then across the street from the hotel, we got some pizza-slices to go – R had mushrooms on his, and I had ham on mine.  They were NOT up to the Bibury standard of a couple of nights ago, but good enough to hold off hunger pangs, as it was 3:30 p.m. by the time we got back to the hotel.  Ate in our room, and R resting while I blog!  Have decided to go out early looking for dinner.  (We would love to go back to Transit tonight, but figure that would make for a really boring blog – so someplace new tonight!)

More later!
m
xxxx



Center Court



Frieze from the Pergamon

Roman Gate from Militas (Turkey)

Ishtar Gate - Babylon

Detail from the Ishtar Gate

Approach to the Ishtar Gate

Detail from the Approach


xxx

War damage

War damage
Neue Promenade